Wednesday, September 15, 2021

Your Frontier Persona - Dressing The Part

Buckskinners take a great deal of pride in the authenticity of their weapons, their accoutrements, and their dress. My own persona is a blend of early 19th century styles that combine the elements of a Lewis and Clark era outdoorsman with the means to afford a felt tri-corn hat and a  fine rifle. This is how I looked in 2013 on my way to the Sierra Primitive, where particular attention was paid to all aspects of equipment and dress.

At the Sonoma Valley Muzzle Loader's rendezvous, you can earn a point for wearing four of the five "proper" dress items. In this posting by Crazy Crow, they list their four basic "mountain person" dress items which include:

  • Calico or unbleached cotton drop-front shirt; for the ladies, a simple calico dress
  • Fall-front or drop-front pants
  • Inexpensive moccasins (nothing with rubber soles!!)
  • A belt (leather with period-correct brass buckle)
SVML adds the following clothing item to the mix:
  • Hat
The Dress Point: To earn the Dress Point, competitors must wear at least 4 of these 5 clothing items. If you attending one of our rendezvous for the first time, you might want to examine your options. If I were starting out, I would be reluctant to spend a lot of money on my clothing. After all, the ensemble would be worn only once a year, maybe more. So you are probably looking for an economical route to earning that costume point. 

Get your  Pull Over Shirt here.
Your Shirt: I would suggest starting with a pull-over type of smock or work shirt. These were commonly available, and used as both a regular garment or as a cover-all when you want to protect your good clothes. These smocks will cover you down to our thighs, which will become important when we get to the pants part.

You'll notice that some shirts are open in the front, have fringe about the edges, and sport a broad collar that serves as additional coving for the shoulders. These are Rifleman's Frock, or Hunting Shirts, and in the early eighteenth century were considered part of the de-facto uniform for local militias. If I remember correctly, George Washington wanted all of his soldiers to wear the frock because the enemy would think that "each soldier was an accomplished marksman". The characteristic fringe helped to wick moisture away from the garment's seams to help prolong the life of the stitching, and the shoulder "cape" helped to retain body heat.

The prices at Crazy Crow seem to be the most reasonable, and at the time of this writing, several of the clothing articles were on sale. Take advantage, and buy early.


Crazy Crow Work Shirts
Work Shirts From Crazy Crow: I found a less expensive work shirt at Crazy Crow. Compared to other options, it's both inexpensive and able to pass muster as an article of primitive clothing. At about $40.00, it will certainly do to "ride the river".

Catching The Garters: Nearly a century before Sears and Roebuck, the sizing and selection of ready-made clothing was much narrower. Shirts were often purchased on the large side, as one couldn't be too picky on the frontier. It was common for the wearer to slit the shirt down the front and hold it closed using a sash or belt, just as you would a bathrobe. If you buy a shirt and the sleeves are too long, don't forget that grandpa used sleeve garters to bring the cuffs to the desired height. Just use a rubber band just above the elbow and allow the excess sleeve to cover them.


Get your Painter's Pants here.
Your Pants: Fall-front or drop-front pants were the style of the day. If you're having trouble visualizing this style, imagine a typical pair of long-johns with the flap in the front. Remember, the zipper hadn't yet been invented. Also worthy of note; neither had the belt loop. At the time, suspenders were how you held you pants up. So it you plan on wearing period correct trousers, count on getting some suspenders to go with it. Buy them at the same time you buy you pants to ensure that you have the proper number of properly-placed buttons on the waistband for your suspenders. Please, no Mork from Ork rainbow jobs.

Pants On The Cheap: Here's the bargain of the day: Go to Home Depot and buy yourself a pair of Painter's Pants. Yes, they have belt loops and zippers, and are not period correct. However, if you're wearing a hunting shirt or smock, they will hidden from sight, and perfectly acceptable under the "eyeball primitive" rule.

By the way, blue jeans hadn't been invented before 1838, so for less than a couple of sawbucks, you can beat the rap.

Your Shoes. I've already covered period correct shoes in this post, so I won't bother to repeat it. You can get around this by going barefoot, which is period correct, but discouraged. People's feet just aren't as sturdy as they once were, and I'm sure most pioneers died before their arches collapsed. One economical option would be to look for all-leather moccasins at a thrift store, providing they look the part. Or you can bite the bullet and buy a pair of Trekking Boots ($100.00 at Crazy Crow). 

Your Belt: You may already have a wide belt (2 1/2" or wider) already. If not, everything you need can be found at the Log Cabin Shop. Besides, you need it to hang your Searles Bowie Knife. Townsend's has a less expensive, 2" belt for a bit less. 

Hats: Here's a suggestion: Buy a wide-brimmed straw hat for protection and a head scarf for the Trek. My reasoning? Too many of my friends have suffered the consequences of overexposure to an outdoor lifestyle, and many, myself included, forget to apply sunscreen. I personally wear a wide brim, unblocked-crown straw hat that provides both protection and comfort. You can order your own straw hat from Crazy Crow by clicking hereIf you go this route, you should consider improvising some sort of "stampede strap" to keep your hat on your head. 

When I was younger, I went through a succession of black felt, broad brimmed hats, and finally settled on a three-cornered felt hat, but shifted to straw when protection from the sun became more important than period correct fashion. Besides, wearing a tri-corn made me look old.

Voyager's Cap, Liberty Cap, Toque
. For cold weather, a Voyager's Cap might be just the thing. Please note that this is NOT the same as a watch cap, as it is longer, more conical, and ends in a pom. It is practical for cold weather excursions. These are somewhat expensive for what you're getting, but it is authentic.

Why Not A Bandana? Having a bandana can be useful in and of itself. A bandage, a sling, a neck kerchief are possible uses. But it can be wrapped around the head, a la Jack Sparrow, as head protection. If you soak it with water before tying it on, it will keep your head cool. It can also be worn between your head and a too-large, loose fitting hat. The largest I've found has been 27" square, which seems to work fine for me. I found a big bandana on Amazon, although I'm sure there are others. Check it out by clicking here.

The Basics: If you're just getting started, you can get your Dress Point with the following:

Crazy Crow Work Shirt

$ 39.00

Home Depot Painter's Pants

$18.98

Townsends Belt and Buckle

$ 40.00

Amazon 27" bandana

$  9.49

Crazy Crow Trekking Boots

$100.00


So there you have it.  The first four items will get you the dress point. The painter's pants are the real surprise. I didn't know they were so inexpensive. You will need a work shirt to cover the belt loops, though. And good luck finding those moccasins at your local thrift store.