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Sights: I seriously doubt than any 21st century
hunter goes afield without a scope. But in the 1840’s environment, scopes did
not exist. Trappers relied on front and rear open sights, and in the case of
the smoothbore shooters, a single front sight. Shooters are required to have
open front and rear sights on their rifles and pistols, and a single front
sight on their trade guns.
Modern Ignition Systems: Most MMLs have In Line
Ignition, a system where the flame from the percussion cap or shotgun primer goes straight into
the powder charge. Traditional side-mounted percussion locks force the cap’s
flame to make a 90 degree turn inside the drum, theoretically delaying the
ignition. In-line ignition systems did exist, the cylinder of a percussion
revolver being the most common. Muzzleloaders must reflect the technology available prior to 1838. Underhammer and side hammer (mule ear) muzzleloaders would be acceptable for shooting at rendezvous under this stipulation. Also, avoid flintlocks. They can be too distracting when they decide to get fussy.
Barrel Twist Rate: For those new to shooting, barrels
with spiral grooves cut in their bores are “rifled”. The
grooves rotate the bullet as it travels down the bore, imparting a spin as it
travels towards the target. The rates are expressed as “inches per revolution”,
or how far down the barrel the bullet must travel in achieve a single
revolution. Twist rates for barrels designed for round ball tend to be slower, often one turn in 66" to one turn in 72". Barrels designed to shoot sabot slugs may range from one turn in 20" to one in 36". Shooters shouldn't shoot patched round ball in one of these fast-twist barrels, as accuracy will not be at the same level as a slower twist barrel. You may encounter a rifle designed for sabot slugs, most notably the discontinued Lyman Great Plains rifle, which may look "period correct" on the outside but are bored to shoot sabots. If memory serves, the barrels are clearly marked, so if your shopping around, be careful.
Buy Or Build? It was once common to find that muzzle loading rifles could be purchased either completely finished, or in kit form. From what have seen, very few were properly finished, and some are actually painful to look at. Now if you skill with hand tools is better than average, you could either buy a new kit, or if your lucky, fine a poorly assembled one at a garage sale. If you have the time, you could eventually turn this sow's ear into a silk purse, but you'll be investing hours of your time. It is my opinion that you should buy a completed rifle if for no other reason that if you take good care of it, it will hold much of its value it you decide to sell it.
One Possible Purchase: For whatever reason, traditional muzzleloaders with round-ball twist barrels are getting harder to find. My all time favorite, the Lyman Great Plains rifle, is now imported through Pedersoli for about 30% more than before. Perhaps the niche market for muzzle loaders is dominated by hunters who demand all of the modern upgrades for their hunting rifles. While there are some kits available, I found a Traditions .50 caliber Kentucky rifle, assembled, for $506.00 and it is available here.